You probably wouldn’t categorize the rising success behind Jun’s unique chain of fusion-sushi restaurants as the typical rags-to-riches story, although it’s certainly worth mentioning his journey would take him from a mere late-night busboy to a premiere chef/owner of four of Seattle’s best-known sushi bar and restaurants. He didn’t even set out to establish his small sushi empire that would dominate the fusion Japanese/Asian cuisine business in the Seattle metro area. Jun himself would tell you his ascension to sushi stardom is really a fateful mixture of dreams, passion, BS&T, triumphs, failures, all hand-rolled into a perfectly fushioned success recipe (with a few dashes of good old fashion luck). But when you dine at one of his restaurants, it’s hard to imagine how such an intricate and precise fare of sushi-centric foods evolved out of a young upstate New York college student sweeping up late-night crumbs. A successful restaurateur, and even more a creative and imaginative sushi-master (genotyped from mom/dad combo of renown artists) were probably far-reach titles when it all started. Busboy/floor sweeper turned master chef… probably not Hollywood script material, but it’s certainly an interesting story.
His first real experience and sudden promotion to the kitchen was a fluke accident, a starry happenstance opportunity to fill in for a sick sushi helper. But however the stars aligned, in the summer of ‘98 a seed of vision and dream was fixed into his core with that first chance occurrence in an upscale sushi bar on the Seattle eastside. And under the tutelage of Sato-san started a series of events that would eventually lead him to open one of Seattle’s most popular restaurants, Wasabi Bistro, followed by a string of bars and restaurants like the Red Fin (inside Hotel Max Seattle) in the downtown metropolitan district, Imo Bistro in the heart of Pioneer Square, and Wasabi Bay in north Seattle. Along the way, he would deconstruct, art-ify, then reassemble the meaning of the term “Asian fusion” and redefine the contemporary post-fusion sushi world.
When it comes to his restaurants and menu list, he’d probably tell you he’s more inclined to use the words “innovative,” “tenderly-with-passion” than “trendy” or “celebrity-food.” However you describe it, it’s obvious that throughout the creative process, he’s artisan endeavors would lead him to concoct of some of the most perfect blends of fusion recipe that not only re-introduced the sushi concept to the masses, but desensitized the fresh fish stigma, almost making it part of the daily food group. A few nibs into clearly formulated dishes like the “Vegas” or “Barbie” Rolls, you begin to understand and come to terms with de-categorizing sushi as an esoteric, Eastern delicacy and start embracing “fish and rice” as a Western alternative to “meat and potatoes.” It’s certainly a fresh departure from the lackluster, minimalist dishes cornered and mystified by the elitist of the Asian sub-population. His eclectic assortment of generous sushi-rolls and Asian blend of familiar and not-so-familiar foods like the “Green Tea Tiramisu” have become part of the sub-pop culture that have popularized the idea that sushi can be tasteful and filling. Face it, sushi’s turned American, and Jun’s fresh, imaginative, yet methodical approach to re-creating sushi has shifted the paradigm to another level.